Captain's Log

Travel Trouble

It was a four train trip from my home to Windermere. The journey was going swimmingly until I reached Preston where the train started running 3 minutes late. ‘No problem’ I thought, since I’d included a 7 minute transfer time for my next connection from Oxenhope to Windermere. Then the train slowed down and stopped. The guard announced that we were briefly stopping to allow a Glasgow bound train to pass us. Why couldn’t they slow down instead of us? We arrived at Oxenhope 5 minutes after my planned train had departed to Windermere. I waited for an hour for the next train with the rest of the annoyed travellers who had also missed the connection. With twice as many passengers, the next Windermere bound train was crammed like a tin of sardines. We arrived four minutes late into Windermere railway station. This was a problem since my bus to Grasmere would depart 5 minutes after the scheduled arrival of the train. I had a minute to get to the bus stop. Every other passenger had the same issue and so there was an undignified scramble to get through the station departure gate to the interchange stop. Women, children, the elderly and the inform were left trampled in my wake. In their wisdom, Stagecoach schedule the arrival of two buses to Grasmere at the same time, the 555 and 559. Why they don’t schedule one 15 minutes later (just in case the Windermere train is delayed) is a bit of a mystery to me. Given there were so many travellers that had been delayed today, maybe I should be thankful that there were two buses, thinking about it. I squeezed into a 555  and we headed north into the Lake District. I arrived in Grasmere an hour later than planned.  

Grasmere

Grasmere was buzzing with tourists. I suppose it was midsummer and during the school holidays. I was here to start my Bob Graham Round (BGR) Venture. I wouldn’t be passing anywhere to resupply for 5 or 6 days and so I visited the Co-Op to stock up before departing. I also contrived a vaguely healthy lunch and sat on a park bench to eat it. Normally the BGR is started and finished at the Moot Hall in Keswick. I’d decided to start at Grasmere since it was quicker to get to from Windermere railway station. I really needed something in the village to serve as my start and finish point for the round. After consideration, I decided that William Wordsworth’s grave would do nicely. I made my way around to St Oswald’s churchyard and found the slab of stone that marked William’s and his sister Dorothy's resting place. They were both keen walkers and I’m sure they’d have appreciated my BGR Venture. I paid my respects and set off on the BGR. 

Steel Fell

I followed Easedale  Road out of the centre of the village and then turned off north on the country lane that runs along Helm Crag’s eastern flank. I saw a Coast To Coast fingerpost and it brought back memories of my walk along the path that was only 3 weeks old (see Coast To Coast WeBo Venture). It was nice to leave the busyness of Grasmere behind and stretch my legs. It was a lovely afternoon with blue skies and cotton wool clouds. At Helmside the tarmac ran out and I started my offroad experience. I wouldn’t see tarmac again until I reached Wasdale in 4 day’s time. The climb up to Steel Fell followed its long south-eastern ridge. It was a gradual climb, first grassy and then rocky. My route up Steel Fell was far easier than that taken by the BGR fell runners. They make a direct assault up its eastern flank  from the top of Dunmail Raise. I’ve never climbed that route and I’ve no real desire to do so. The south-eastern ridge was far easier and gave good views into the Greenburn valley to the left and the Helvellyn/Fairfield range to the right. Occasionally I’d pause and turn around to look back towards Grasmere. This included a great view of Helm Crag and its two large crags on the summit, the Lion and Lamb. I could see the tiny figure of somebody who had scrambled to the airy summit of the Lion. I reached Steel Fell’s summit; my first tick on the BGR. I sat down to rest for five minutes and admired the view. It had been a great start to the BGR.

Calf Crag

The route across from Steel Fell to Calf Crag, the next BGR tick,  isn’t that popular. I’m not sure why, since the track offers great views into the Greenburn valley. There was quite a strong wind since I'd reached the top of Steel Fell and I wondered whether my intended camping spot on Greenup Edge would be too exposed. It would be more sheltered down here at the lower level. I decided to leave the decision as to where to camp until the start of the final haul up to Greenup Edge. The track became vaguer as I approached Calf Crag. There was a gradual climb to its top, but nothing too serious. At last I reached its summit cairn and I got my camera out to take a photo of that wonderful view down Far Easedale. The wind didn’t seem to be so bad here and so I decided to press on to Greenup Edge. I’d not seen any other walkers on the fells so far; I seemed to have the Lake District to myself. This was a bit different to walking along here on the Coast To Coast three weeks ago, when I’d met quite a few walkers. I followed the slabs across Brownrigg Moss and stopped to filter some water to take up to Greenup Edge. The climb up to the edge didn’t seem to take long and I soon found myself at the cairn at the top of the pass. 

Greenup Edge

I headed off towards Ullscarf and found a reasonably sheltered spot near one of the crags that were dotted around the area. I soon had my tent up and had a great view of the route I’d taken from Steel Fell to Calf Crag. Despite the tardy train start, I’d reached my intended destination for the day and so was happy. It had only been a 6 mile walk, but with a heavy pack it felt like more. I ate some sandwiches that I’d bought at Grasmere’s Co-Op. This would be my last fresh food for the next four days. I’d ticked 2 of the 42 BGR peaks. The fastest time on the BGR was made by Jack Kuenzle in 2022 with a time of 12 hours and 23 minutes. That equates to bagging a peak every 18 minutes. I’d have to up-my-game if I was going to beat that time. Especially, since by the time I’d wake up tomorrow morning, I’d have already spent 15 hours on the BGR. The record for the fastest BGR completion by a female was set only a week ago on the 24th of July 2026, by Katharina Hartmuth in 14 hours 12 minutes.  I consoled myself with the knowledge that I was carrying a heavier rucksack than both Jack and Katharina which probably accounted for my slower time.