Newcastle's St Nicholas Cathedral (originally built 1091; current building dates from 1350).
Plenty to see including: the lantern tower, creative carvings at the Quire, intricate carvings of the reredos and an excellent East Window.
Don't forget the Vampire Bunny either...although its not officially part of the cathedral itself.
There are plenty of information boards to give some context.
Click on the above map for an interactive map of the route. The Trails Map (dropdown, top right) is the best free map for displaying footpaths and topography. Expand to full screen (cross arrows, top right) to see route detail. Ordnance Survey maps can be used with a small subscription to Plotaroute.
GPX Download - Download a GPX file of the route to your phone or GPS.
Plotaroute Map - Full page interactive map. Additional download options are also available.
Map/Directions PDF - PDF file with a map and directions.
Website: Baltic
Car Park: There is no carpark adjacent to the cathedral. The nearest is probably Dean Street carpark, although there are other nearby options too.
Fee: Free (2025)
Lantern Spire
Newcastle Cathedral isn’t like a York Minster with its profile dominating the city skyline. It is a one tower building of modest size. That’s not to say it loses out in the aesthetics race too. Size isn’t everything. For example, it has a very distinctive 15th century lantern spire. Wikipedia says that it was the main navigation point for ships using the River Tyne, although it doesn’t back this with any citation. Personally, I’m not sure how useful a light would be to sailors when it is situated half a mile from the river. It is also around 9 miles from the sea as the Kittiwake flies and so it is going to be of little use to any ships that haven’t entered the Tyne. The cathedral's website says that it was a night-time reference point for people crossing the Town Moor; this sounds more likely to me. On each corner of the lantern are gilded statues, of Adam eating the apple, Eve holding out the apple, Aaron dressed as a bishop, and Ringo playing the drums.
The cathedral is named after Saint Nicholas who was the patron saint of children, sailors and fishermen. He was so proficient at carrying out miracles that he was also known as Nicholas The Wonderworker, which is quite a coincidence since I was known as Nun The Wonderworker at my last place of employment. The Norman church was founded in 1091 and destroyed by fire in 1216. The current building was completed by 1350 and greatly restored in 1777.
The Tomb Of Bishop Lloyd, The First Bishop Of Newcastle
Vampire Bunny
Before I stepped into the cathedral I took a tour of its perimeter. Rather bizarrely, I had an encounter with a ‘Vampire Bunny.’ This menacing bunny sat above the door of one of the buildings that faced the cathedral. The rabbit definitely has fangs and I suspect would be pretty useless for eating carrots. It dates back to 1901 and nobody really knows why it was put there. Suggestions include: deterring grave robbers, or an aesthetic joke by the architects. One theory suggests it may be a reference to a local physician, Sir George Hare Philipson. It is certainly a curiosity.
View Towards The Quire And East End
Mystery Knight
I walked into the west end of the cathedral. This provided a wonderful view eastwards along its length to the large stained glass window at the other end. There were a few statues of notables including Lord Admiral Collingwood who picked up the batten at the Battle of Trafalgar when Nelson took one for the team.
St Margaret's Chapel was positioned at the western end of the cathedral. The stained glass window of the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus was around 600 years old. There was also an effigy of a mysterious medieval knight. Nobody knows who he was although the style of the armour suggests he lived around 1350. An information board asks you to identify the animal that lies at the knight’s feet.
‘Is it a lion, a sign of valour and nobility, or a dog to show loyalty?’ it ponders.
It actually looked like a sheep to me. What was that supposed to represent? Meekness? That doesn’t sound very appealing for a knight.
The Green Man
The Organ
I made my way down to the Quire. This was a very impressive place. The Victorian artist Ralph Hedley directed the carvings of the wonderful beasts that adorn the furniture there. There are dragons, angels, a griffin, eagles, pelicans and the Green Man. For reference, a griffin is part lion and part eagle, whilst the Green Man was a pagan symbol of seasonal renewal.
As I wandered around the Quire and inspected all these amazing little carvings, I couldn’t help overhearing a conversation between two nearby organists. One was giving the other some inside technical knowledge on playing the instrument. The conversation ended and the understudy started practising. He was really rather good.
The Spectacular Reredos Blocks The View To The East Window
The Oldest Lectern In Northern England
The lectern was based on a brass eagle and is apparently the oldest lectern in northern England. Eagles are a popular design for lecterns because they are associated with St John, whose Gospel begins, ‘In the beginning was the Word.’
The Victorians added the reredos at the High Altar. It was a stunning piece of work, although it was roped off and you couldn’t really see the detail of the carved figures. The reredos blocked the view of the east window which was a bit of a shame. To see the window as a whole, it was necessary to stand quite close to it on the other side of the reredos. It was a 15th century window with 19th century glass.
The cathedral hosts a Wetheringsett Organ that was on loan from the Royal College of Organists. An information board stated that the soundboard of the organ was discovered in a farmhouse in Wethersingsett, Suffolk in 1977. It was being used as a dairy door. The instrument currently on show was a reconstruction of an English pre-Reformation organ built in 2001-02.
Wetheringsett Organ (Front)
Wetheringsett Organ (Rear)
Stained Glass Window In St George's Chapel With Partial Industrial Theme
St George’s Chapel was on the north side of the cathedral. Although it was around 400 years old, it did have a modern twist to it. One of its stained glass windows portrayed St Oswald and St Cuthbert, icons of the early church. Another window though mixed historical references to those of modern day too. This included a picture of a ship, some coal mines and oil derricks. These were included to celebrate local industrialists.
Andrew Laing was an early 20th century shipbuilder and worked on transatlantic liners and battleships. The ship in the stained glass was the SS Maurentania. Laing's company designed Mauretania’s engines. At its launch in 1906, it was the world’s largest ship. It held both the east and westbound trans Atlantic crossing times for 20 years.
The Crypt Is Now A Small Chapel
The Hanging Wooden Canopy Is Off-Centre From The Font Due To The Leaning Tower
I returned to the 15th century limestone font at the west end of the cathedral. In 1640 some marauding Scottish Reformers entered Newcastle and the stone mason Cuthbert Maxwell decided to dismantle the font and hide it. He’d just witnessed the font at St John’s in Grainger street being destroyed. It was returned to its position a few years later. Looking closely, the wooden canopy hanging above the font was off-centre. This was because the cathedral’s tower has shifted over time. Given the amount of stone in the tower above me, I thought it was best to make a quick exit.
I enjoyed my tour around Newcastle’s St Nicholas Cathedral. There were plenty of things to see and an abundance of information boards to set some context. I particularly like the creative carvings in the Quire.
Carving In The Quire