Captain's Log

Ambleside

I’d driven up to the Lake District in the morning and arrived at Ambleside about midday. I was joining the Cabin Boy and the Kapitan in their digs for a week. When I arrived they were filling their guts with various fried meats. This culinary delight seemed to go down far better than my suggestion that we make use of the glorious sunny weather and go for a walk. Their greasy jaws dropped and some mutterings commenced. I left them to their consultations while I went to my room to change into my walking gear. On my return, they announced that they’d rather lay on the sofa and fall asleep, than partake in any exercise. It looked like I would be doing a walk on my own. 

I left the adventurous pair to their snoozing and set off. It was approaching 1pm, but that still gave me maybe 3 hours before it got dark. I decided that I’d do a quick up-and-down to nearby Wansfell Pike. Given the good weather I reckoned that I’d get some good views today. Our digs was on the Fisherbeck Estate and this gave easy access to the base of Wansfell Pike. I set off on the steep climb through Bluehill Wood. 

Ascent

Normally, on an ascent of Wansfell Pike, I’d follow the contour of the hillside towards Strawberry Wood and then head in a north westerly route to the summit. Given today’s time limitations, I decided to take a more direct route and joined a grassy track that ran parallel to the south wall of Redbank Wood. I’d used this route a few times before and knew that there were holes in the stone walls that on first sight seemed to prevent access to the upper fells. I soon left the last stone walls behind and continued upwards through open fell. I paused occasionally to admire the wonderful panoramic views behind me. They stretched along the length of Windermere, over the Coniston Fells, around to the Langdales, eventually ending up with the hills around Fairfield and the Red Screes. The village of Ambleside was of course nestled below me. I plodded upwards. Given the recent rain, I’d expected the terrain to be wet, but it was rather dry. It felt icy though and so this had hardened the ground up. 

Most people use the stone steps on Wansfell Pike’s west side to reach its summit. I only met a handful of people using my ascent route. As I approached the top I could see a lot of people mooching around. I could see that it wouldn’t be a solitary summit experience. 

Wansfell Pike

It definitely was a bit of a shock as I encountered the crowds on the top. I could see an escalator of people using the western route. I’d followed a young woman up Wansfell’s last crag and she chatted to me on top. This was the first time that she’d climbed a hill in the Lake District and seemed excited at the views.
‘Is there an easy way down?’ she asked. She’d chosen the steep stone western staircase and didn’t fancy the prospect of tusing it for a descent. I got my map out and showed her the alternative route of continuing down towards Troutbeck, then heading south over The Hundreds, before returning to Ambleside through Skelghyll Wood. I could see her eyes glazing over. I think she was expecting me to suggest a helicopter evacuation or maybe a cable car as potential options. I left her to ruminate on her choices. My descent would make use of the western stone staircase. 

Descent

I think I probably prefer to ascend the stone steps, rather than descend them. Most of the steps were dry, but occasionally water had frozen over one of them and so constant care was needed. There were plenty of people coming up the steps and so I’d often have to divert on to the adjacent grass. Most of this was frozen and slippery and so it was a tricky process. It certainly wasn’t a day for rushing. It did give me time to admire the tremendous view along the valley to the top of Kirkstone Pass. There was still a stream of people starting the ascent as I neared the bottom of the stone steps. Maybe they were going up to see the sunset. I hoped they had head torches. 

Return

I reached the T junction of paths at the bottom of the steps. Most of the walkers continued downhill and joined the road near Stockghyll Force before descending into Ambleside. I diverted away from them on the less populated south easterly path that gradually descended towards the Fisherbeck estate. The sun was dropping below Loughrigg’s summit as I joined Ambleside’s streets. Back at the digs, the Cabin Boy and Kapitan were rubbing sleep from the corners of their eyes and greasy crumbs from their mouths as I recounted the wonderful views I’d seen on the walk. I hoped that they’d both muster a bit more energy in the forthcoming days.