Captain's Log

Kirkstone's Northern Horseshoe

I’ve climbed Red Screes dozens of times. Nearly all of these ascents started from Ambleside and involved some sort of circuit around the Scandale valley. Even when ticking Middle Dodd for my Wainwright’s Venture, I simply carried out an out-and-back from the Red Scree’s summit. On reflection it seems odd that I’ve always included Red Screes on a circuit from the south. Therefore, I thought it was about time that I’d include the mighty mountain on a northern circuit. Today’s plan was to park at the free carpark at the top of Kirkstone’s pass and make the steep, direct assault on Red Scree’s eastern flank to its summit. From there I’d head northwards over Middle Dodd and descend down to the Kirkstone Road. I’d then cross to the other side of the valley and follow the long ridge up to Caudale Moor. I’d then continue southwards along St Raven’s Edge before descending back to the carpark at the top of Kirkstone Pass. I could have parked at the northern end of the horseshoe, where the route crosses the Kirkstone Road (there are a few roadside car parking spots around there) , but I was staying in Ambleside and so the top of the Kirkstone Pass was nearer. So, for the first time in my life I set out on the Kirkstone Northern Horseshoe 

Red Screes

A motorhome followed me into the carpark at the top of Kirkstone Pass. Mist drifted over the pass. It carried some rain and so I put on my waterproofs. The steep track up to the summit of Red Screes disappeared into the mist and looked intimidating as it disappeared into the crags. I thought the occupants of the motorhome might follow me up, but they were obviously quite content to sit inside, sup tea and watch me make slow progress up the hillside. The ascent path isn't actually that difficult with most of it being a stone staircase which makes it a much easier climb. The mist drifted in and out and I occasionally caught glimpses of the carpark far below. The motorhome was still there and nobody was following me up. There was a bit of a ‘difficult step’ about halfway up which involved traversing a short section of sloping slab. It was easy enough, although care would have been needed if it had been covered with ice.  Not surprisingly, I didn’t find anybody at the summit trig and because of the mist, I didn’t get any of the stunning views that one normally gets from the top. There was a strong, wet southerly wind blowing and so I followed the edge  until it turned northwards towards Middle Dodd, making my rucksack take the battering rather than my face. 

Middle Dodd

I dropped out of the mist and Middle Dodd came into view. On my right, I could look over Kirkstone Pass and see Caudale Moor; I’d walk over that in the afternoon. It was a tremendous view northwards from the summit of Middle Dodd. I could see Brothers Water in the distance. The mist was clearing from the tops now, but the rain was getting worse. I’d read accounts that it was a steep, difficult descent (or ascent, if coming the other way) from Middle Dodd into the valley. Maybe this is why I’d avoided this route for so long. I was therefore pleasantly surprised to find that it was nowhere as tricky as I’d imagined. It wasn’t a track to rush in these slippery conditions, but it wasn't difficult and had the advantage of those  wonderful views down the valley. It wasn’t long before I reached the bottom of the valley. A sturdy footbridge took me across Kirkstone Beck and a less sturdy one over a tributary. I followed the footpath posts to the  Kirkstone Road and then an offroad path brought me to the Caudale Bridge. The easiest part of the day was over and the hard work was about to begin. 

Caudale Moor

I followed the track alongside Caudale Beck until it drifted away in a zig and a zag through a forest of ferns. There are quite a few paths through these ferns, but as long as you hit the ridge above Caudale Beck, it doesn’t really matter which one you choose. It felt a relief to escape the ferns and reach the grassy fellside. The track along the ridge was vague at first, but became more substantial. A lot of walkers follow the more obvious track a little below the ridge to the disused Caudale Quarry. From there they climb up to the ridge. It was a steep climb along the ridge, but gradually it became easier. The rain had stopped now and even the sun threatened to come out. The wind was still strong though. Four jets appeared at the top of the Kirkstone Pass and flew down the valley, well below me, before disappearing around the dog-leg of Ullswater. I’d only brought my compact camera today and so I couldn’t do justice to the spectacle. During the day, they returned a couple of more times, once down Kirkstone Pass and then over by High Street. The sun came out for good when I reached the top of Caudale Moor. Stony Cove Pike’s summit was over to the east on the plateau and I decided to bypass it today. I followed a track to a large mound of rocks with a cross on top of it. This was the memorial to Mark Atkinson, a former owner of the Kirkstone Pass Inn, who died in 1930. There is also a plaque commemorating the death of  William Atkinson, who died in 1987. I noticed that it was possible to see the Kirkstone Inn from the cross. 

St Raven's Edge

A vague track took me from the memorial cross to the broken stone wall that runs down to St Raven’s Edge. I found the path along the stone wall to be a very damp part of the Lake District, but there were plenty of stones around to enable me to escape with dry feet. I’d not met any walkers all day, but I met two individuals along this path. It seems the appearance of the  sun had encouraged people to come out in the afternoon. As I walked along St Raven’s Edge I got excellent views across the valley to the eastern crags on Red Screes. These were very impressive and had been shrouded in mist as I walked amongst them this morning. The drop off St Raven’s Edge to the top of Kirkstone Pass is initially quite steep and required a bit of easy hands-on scrambling in places. On one occasion in the past, I’d slipped on some ice around here, banged my head on a stone and lost my glasses. It was only by carrying out a fingertip search that I'd found them again and restored my vision. I always carry a spare pair of glasses since that experience. There were plenty of cars in the carpark on my return. I noticed the motorhome that I’d seen this morning was still there, although it looked like they’d stopped drinking tea and gone for a walk somewhere.     

The Kirkstone Northern Horseshoe was a brilliant walk. I’ve no idea why it had taken me so long for me to give it a try. There were incredible views from the edges on both sides of the Kirkstone valley. It was also a great place to get photos of the jets as they flew over the pass and down the valley.