Captain's Log

Kinder Scout

My last camp on the Pennine Way had been very cold. I started the day, just like every other day on trail, by having a brew and eating a bowl of muesli. Last night’s rain hadn’t persisted, but the wind definitely had. I stepped outside the tent to find a sunny morning, but it felt Baltic with the cold wind. I started to pack up the tent and halfway through my hands went numb with the cold. I put my gloves on and rubbed my hands to try and get some warmth back into them. After I’d packed everything into my rucksack, I debated whether I should keep my Pertex jacket on. In the end, I decided to take it off and rely on a fast walk to warm me up. 

I set off following the River Kinder downstream towards Kinder Downfall. I came across two other wildcampers who were also packing their stuff up. They must have been late arrivals last night since they weren’t there when I passed yesterday evening. I reached the Kinder Downfall and was met by a strong, cold westerly. So strong and cold that there was nothing for it; I put my Pertex jacket back on. Despite the conditions it was a lovely sunny morning. I started making my way along the plateau’s western edge. I’ve walked this path many times over the years, but the dramatic view westwards towards Manchester, always inspires me. It was still early and so I didn’t meet anybody along the path. Eventually I came to Kinder Low with its trig point marooned on a boulder. The Pennine Way was all downhill from here. 

Jacob's Ladder

I continued southwards, dropping down by Edale Rocks. I soon reached the start of the Jacob’s Ladder path. An advantage of doing the Pennine Way SoBo is that you end up going down Jacob’s Ladder, rather than up it. I started descending the steep, rocky path. The cold wind that had battered me on the plateau suddenly disappeared and the day warmed up considerably. I took off my jacket and gloves. It's a pretty valley in which to descend into and gradually a view of the head of the Vale of Edale opened up. I started meeting NoBos experiencing their first climb of the Pennine Way. The first chap was from Derby. He told me he’d been planning this trip since last October and he was really excited to be actually starting it. He shook me by the hand on completing the trail. Well, that was a first! The next guy I met was from Strasbourg. He told me that he’d completed the Cape Wrath path last year and long distance trails in Sweden, including the famous 270 miles Kungsleden (The King’s Trail). He had a 1,000+ km trail lined up. He looked about 40 and I wondered what he did for a living to have this much spare time for walking. As I reached the bottom of Jacob’s Ladder, I met two walkers coming towards me. They asked me if I was completing the Pennine Way and I provided confirmation. They both shook my hands. They were reconnoitring the start of the Pennine Way, since the younger of the two was going to do the Pennine Sprint later this summer. I’d heard of this race, but didn’t know much about it. Apparently it is a 46 mile race along the Pennine Way from Edale to Hebden Bridge. There’s an 18 hour time limit for the race. I reckon I could just about manage the 46 miles, but I’m not sure whether I’d be able to do it in 18 hours. The other question would be whether I’d want to do it. I wished him luck for the race. The last NoBo I met on the Pennine Way was an anxious looking woman who looked to be in her mid 30s. She asked me how easy it was to wildcamp along the route. I told her I’d wildcamped about half of the time (in fact my tally turned out to be 8 wildcamps, 6 campsite camps, 1 bothy and 1 hotel).
‘I didn’t have a problem. Just follow the usual rules. Camp discretely, arrive late and leave early’ I said. She still looked anxious. 

Edale

I turned into the Vale of Edale and started to field-hop my way eastwards. It was a lovely path and elevated enough to give a good view down and across the valley. I met day walkers who were coming the other way. Some of them looked with astonishment at my large rucksack. The buildings of Edale village came into view. The final Pennine Way slabs led me through a field and then  to the footpath that heads into the village. The end of the Pennine Way was as understated as the start had been at Kirk Yetholm, 17 days ago. There was a fingerpost with a Pennine Way sign and a small metal plaque that said:

 The Official Start Of The Pennine Way
Kirk Yetholm 268 Miles/429 Km   

As a SoBo, it was of course the end of the Pennine Way for me and not the start. Maybe there should be some recognition for SoBos at both Edale and Kirk Yetholm. After all, I think it's the best direction to tackle this wonderful national trail.    

It was still too early for the famous Nag’s Head pub to be open. I could have nipped in for a coffee at the nearby campsite’s café, but my train was due at Edale’s railway station and so I headed in that direction.     

I’m glad that my Pennine Way SoBo Venture had ended with a short final day. It finished with a very scenic one too. I felt great physically. No blisters, no aches or pains. I really did feel as good as the day I set off. So, will I do the trail again? I’m pretty sure I will. I met some amazing people along the way. It is a classic trail going through such a wonderful, varied landscape that I’m sure I’ll want to revisit it in a few year’s time.   

My thoughts and useful notes about the trail can be found on page, UK - Pennine Way SoBo.