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Day 1 - Kelso To Trowup Burn

A curious start to the Pennine Way Sobo (SouthBound) Venture in that it begins with an 8 mile road walk from Kelso to the trail’s official start at Kirk Yetholm. Anybody who wants to avoid this tarmac start to this epic national trail can alternatively cover the distance via a taxi. The preamble does have the advantage of experiencing some lowland walking before ascending on to the spine of the UK. After inspecting the low key official start at Kirk Yetholm (an information board and a Pennine Way fingerpost pointing southwards), start your 270 mile journey to Edale. The climb up the lower hills may feel arduous due to it being your first day with a heavy pack. Wildcamp in a remote Cheviot valley and contemplate the adventure for the next 16 days. 

Day 2 - Trowup Burn To Yearning Saddle

Gradually climb higher into the Cheviot range including a traverse over The Schil. Recuperate at Auchope mountain shelter before attempting the long slog up to Auchope Cairn. Look north to the impressive chasm of Hen Hole. Some masochists may want to include a 2 hour out-and-back to the summit of The Cheviot at this point, but my route continues southwestwards along the magnificent Cheviot ridge. Look north at the stunning views into Scotland. Mark your progress as you click off the hills along the ridge: Score Head, King’s Seat, Windy Gyle, Mozie Law, Beefstand Hill and Lamb Hill. Wildcamp at the remote Yearning Saddle mountain shelter with the advantage of popping inside if the weather is too bad for a night under canvas. 

Day 3 - Yearning Saddle To Gibshiel

Continue southwards along the remote Cheviot ridge before its termination at Byrness Hill. Take a moment to consider the miles walked along the ridge. Look southwards to the rolling hills of the Redesdale Forest of the walk yet to come. Descend to Byrness and visit its St Francis’ church which has the interesting Catcleugh Window that commemorates the 64 men, women and children who died during the construction of the Catcleugh Reservoir. Plod along 5 miles of forestry tracks before wildcamping at a secluded spot overlooking the moors. 

Day 4 - Gibshiel To Bellingham

A shorter and easier walk today. Start the day with a visit to a wonderfully made cairn on Padon Hill that commemorates the golden wedding anniversary of Sir Charles and Lady Morrison-Bell of nearby Otterburn Hall. Cross open moorland with far reaching open views. Descend into the pretty village of Bellingham and fill your gullet with pasties, cake and coffee from the wonderful Lunch bakery. Inspect the village’s Chinese Gingall, before taking a well deserved rest at the excellent Brown Rigg Caravan and Camping site (reasonably priced too for non-members). 

Day 5 - Bellingham To Winshields

A morning of field hopping, including a visit to Shitlington <snigger> Crags and Hall. Take a pit stop at Horneystead Farm for some hot broth (open 24 hours claims its sign). Enter forestry plantations, some still growing and others nuked. Traverse a number of false summits before reaching Hadrian’s Wall and joining its path. Head westwards to inspect the remains of the tree at Sycamore Gap. Climb to Winshield Crags, the highest point on the Hadrian’s Wall Path and marvel at the immense construction of the wall from east to west. Descend to the Winshields campsite and recover from what will have been a surprisingly hilly day (especially along the wall). 

Day 6 - Winshields To Lambley Common

Ascend back up to Hadrian’s Wall and follow its rolling route westwards. Reward yourself with coffee and cake at the mobile cafe at Cawfield’s carpark. Today’s route deviates from the official Pennine Way route. Rather than continuing along Hadrian’s Wall to Greenhead and then turning south over Blenkinsopp Common and field-hopping to Lambley Common, today’s route heads through the town of Haltwhistle and follows the South Tyne Trail to Lambley Viaduct. This alternative has the advantage of visiting the impressive Haltwhistle gorge and some beautiful views along the South Tyne river. It passes the grand Featherstone Castle and then the towering Lambley Viaduct. There is a climb up to Lambley Common for your wildcamp. 

Day 7 - Lambley Common To Greg's Hut

A long walk with a fair bit of ascent at the end of the day. The route makes its way along the pretty South Tyne valley by a combination of field-hopping, old railway route and riverside walking. Inspect the remains of the Epicacum Roman fort, before making your way to the town of Alston, with its cobbled streets, quaint shops and roaring motorbikes. Field-hop your way alongside the river South Tyne to the village of Garrigill. Start the 5.5 mile gradual climb along a lonely stone road towards the summit of Cross Fell. Spend the night in the remote Greg’s Hut bothy with its communal sleeping platform and insomniac mice. 

Day 8 - Greg's Hut To Cauldron Spout

Enjoy an early morning climb to the summit of Cross Fell and the highest point on the Pennine Way. To be honest, nearly all of the ascent had been achieved in yesterday’s long ascent from Garrigill to Greg’s Hut. Assuming that your eyes aren’t watering from a Helm Wind, you’ll be able to look across the Eden Valley to the lumps and bumps of the Lake District on the horizon. A rollercoaster path takes you over Little Dun Fell to its higher brother, Great Dun Fell where you can wonder at what is going on inside those large white golf balls and mushroom shaped buildings. A long descent is made to the pretty village of Dufton where you can easily consume a week’s worth of calories in one sitting at the Post Box Pantry (pre-check the opening times to avoid disappointment). An afternoon climb back to the top of the hills again to witness the awesome glacial valley of High Cup Nick. Follow Maize Beck westwards for a secluded wildcamp at the bottom of Cauldron Spout waterfall. 

Day 9 - Cauldron Spout To Middleton-in-Teesdale

After a start with a slippery, bouldery section alongside Maize Beck, the route field-hops its way eastwards, eventually reaching Teesdale and the River Tees. The path follows the river past the stunning High Force waterfall with its 21 metres drop. Further along the river we reach the equally impressive Low Force waterfalls. Enjoy a brief diversion to the cafe at the Bowlees Visitor Centre for some coffee and cake. Continue following the beautiful River Tees with its riverside path and lovely hay meadows. Eventually reach the town of Middleton-in-Teesdale where you can treat yourself to a £58 (2026) single room, to recharge your equipment and make use of its unique chocolate brown ensuite bathroom. A bargain if ever there was one. 

Day 10 - Middleton-in-Teesdale To Keld

A long and surprisingly undulating day that starts with a field-hop from Middleton-in-Teesdale to a wonderful view at a picnic area at the end of Grassholme Reservoir. Another hill traverse takes you to the next valley and Blackton Reservoir where Hannah Hauxwell forged out a spartan life at her remote farm. Just beyond is one of the best Honesty Cafes that I’ve come across, at Clove Farm. An undulating traverse of Cotherston Moor brings you to the intrusion of the A66 and the halfway point on the Pennine Way. Beyond the busy trans Pennine dual carriageway there’s yet more moor walking to the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub (528m asl) in Britain, where you can replenish your water levels with a pint of Theakston’s Old Peculiar. It is all downhill from the Tan Hill Inn, along the West Stones Dale to the pretty village of Keld, where you camp at Rukin’s campsite. You definitely feel like you’ve entered the Dales at this point. 

Day 11 - Keld To Hardraw

Probably my favourite section of the Pennine Way. A shortish day in mileage, but involves a traverse of the whale like Great Shunner Fell. Starts with a high level walk along the east side of Kisdon Hill with fine views across the valley to Swinner Gill. Wonderful views open up eastwards along the main Swaldale valley. Descend to the twee village of Thwaite where you may time your arrival for the opening of the Kearton Tearoom. Start the long, but gradual ascent to the summit of the mighty Great Shunner Fell. Hope that when you get to the top that there is a spare space in the quadrant of the cross shelter that is protected from the wind. An easy, gradual path takes you down Great Shunner’s south side and delivers you to Hardraw where you camp at the Old Hall campsite. Enjoy a pint of Theakston’s Old Peculiar at the nearby Green Dragon pub. 

Day 12 - Hardraw To Fountains Fell

A long day (20+ miles) with a lot of ascent (1000+ metres). Start the day with a short walk to the town of Hawes where you can replenish your supplies. Field-hopping takes you upwards and upwards to Dodd Fell. Join the Roman Cam Road before turning southwards over undulating fields and fells before dropping down into Horton-in-Ribblesdale. My route bypasses the official Pennine Way route to the summit of Pen-y-ghent (reasons given in the Captain’s Log), by traversing the hill’s southern shoulder. Climb Fountains Fell for a remote summit wildcamp. Epic Dales views throughout the day. 

Day 13 - Fountains Fell To Ickornshaw

At 25.5 miles, this is the longest day on the Pennine Way and has a fair amount of ascent 794m. Fortunately, it starts with a long, easy descent off Fountains Fell to Malham Tarn. A further descent takes you to the incredible limestone pavements and cliff of Malham Cove. Replenish your energy with a visit to one of Malham’s cafes. Follow the River Aire southwards on a pretty path before branching away and field-hopping into the next pit stop, the village of Gargrave. More field-hopping takes you to East Marton and the Leeds-Liverpool canal before branching away eastwards on a long ascent to Pinhaw Beacon with its excellent views back towards the Dales. From here there’s plenty of more field-hopping over surprisingly hilly and tiring terrain to the village of Ickornshaw and the small campsite at Winterhouse Barn. The landscape now feels very ‘West Yorkshire’, rather than Dales like. A tough day at the office! 

Day 14 - Ickornshaw To May's Shop (Heptonstall)

The good news is that after two days of tough walking, today’s walk is much shorter (13,81 miles). The bad news is that it still encompasses a lot of ascent (744 metres). It starts with a traverse of Ickornshaw moor with its abundance of mysterious sheds. Descends to Ponden Reservoir and then heads straight back up again to join the Bronte Way and the other walkers on their pilgrimage to Withins, supposedly the inspiration behind Wuthering Heights. Leave the book worms behind as you cross a pass and join a valley with three other reservoirs. Crosses the head of the valley and traverses yet more lonely moorland towards Hebden Bridge. Drops down from the moor to May’s Shop, a facility that claims to ‘Sells Owt Tha Wants.’ Camp in their free neighbouring field…although you may have to move on some of their sheep and shift some of their droppings. 

Day 15 - May's Shop (Heptonstall) To Black Hill

The second longest day on the Pennine Way (23.16 miles) and also has the greatest amount of ascent (1174 metres). It’s another tough day at the office. Starts with an undulating route from last night’s camp at May’s Shop to the pinnacle monument of Stoodley Pike. Enjoy extensive views westwards as you travel southwards past a collection of reservoirs. At the White House (Littleborough’s version rather than Washington’s), the path climbs again to follow the serrated Blackstone Edge, before dropping down to the pedestrian footbridge over the M62. More Marsden moorland meanderings take you to Standedge where you cross the A62, another trans Pennine road. The route proceeds over Rocher and Black Moss before dropping down into the beautiful Wessenden valley. Three reservoirs lead you up to its head where you find the path that takes you gradually up to the plateau of Black Hill. Enjoy a wildcamp on its edge watching the twinkling lights of West Yorkshire's towns, as the sun goes down. 

Day 16 - Black Hill To River Kinder

An easy start with a traverse of Black Hill’s summit. The path crosses remote moorland and then hugs the edge of Laddow Rocks. Drops down towards Crowden where NoBo Pennine Wayers usually spend their first night. Crosses the busy A628 and the dam of the Torside Reservoir before tackling the prolonged and arduous ascent of Bleaklow via Clough Edge. Take a rest at Bleaklow Head with its large cairn and stake, before heading south on a long meandering, and sometimes boggy path. This leads to a slab-fest of a route across bleak moorland to Mill Hill with only your thoughts for company. The hardest ascent of the day is near the end with the steep, rocky steps up to the Kinder Scout plateau. Follow the dramatic western edge of the plateau to the ever impressive Kinder Downfall. Follow its river into the plateau to find a suitable remote spot for a wildcamp. 

Day 17 - River Kinder To Edale

The shortest day on the Pennine Way is left for the end;just 5.21 miles long and 127 metres of ascent. From last night’s Kinder Scout plateau wildcamp, follow the River Kinder back to the Kinder Downfall on its western edge. Head southwards along the edge with awesome views over the Kinder Reservoir to a distant Manchester. At Kinder Low’s trig point, start heading downhill and join the rocky Jacob’s Ladder into the Vale of Edale. At Upper Booth, an easy path heads eastwards along the valley. Soon, the small village of Edale reveals itself and before you know it you will reach the green plaque and last Pennine Way fingerpost that indicates the completion (or start, if you are NoBo) of this amazing trail. Give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. Treasure the memories of 17 amazing days.