Captain's Log

Greenup Edge

The weather looked pretty good as I poked my head out of my tent at my wildcamp on Greenup Edge. I saw blue sky over the Helvellyn/Fairfield range with some large white clouds skirting their tops. It all looked quite encouraging. It was the second day on my Bob Graham Round (BGR) Venture. I’d only ticked off 2 peaks on my first day,  yesterday (see Captain's Log, Men And Women Of Steel). Today would add another 7 ticks and so would be a bit more productive. I’d start the day by climbing up to the large plateau area of High Rise, which I’d cross to bag the craggy summit of Sergeant Man. I’d then work my way around to the Langdales, picking up Thunacar Knott on the way. From the top of Harrison Stickle, I would hopefully get a good view of the impressive cliff face of Pavey Ark. The real challenge of the day would be Pike O’Stickle since it would be a hands-on scramble to its summit. I wasn’t sure how easy it would be with my large backpack, but I was willing to give it a try. There would then be a long pause in the peak-bagging as I’d make my way around the head of the Langdale valley to Rossett Pike where there would be a spectacular view along the length of the valley. From Rossett Pike, the BGR fell runners normally choose a route via the Great Slab up to Bow Fell. This is the most direct and quickest way, but it’s also the steepest too, and I didn’t really fancy attempting that route carrying a large backpack. Instead I’d take a longer, alternative route via Angle Tarn and Ore Gap. It would mean doing an out-and-back from the top of Ore Gap to Bow Fell’s summit, but hey-ho, nobody said the BGR was going to be easy! The last BGR peak of the day would be bagged by a traverse of Esk Pike. I’d end proceedings with a wildcamp on the north side of Allen Crags. 

High Raise, Sergeant Man And Thunacar Knott

As I made my way towards the climb to High Raise, I could see threatening clouds gathering in the west. These got darker until eventually I could see a veil of rain approaching me across the hills. I put my waterproofs on and braced myself. We greeted each other at the summit of High Raise and I was surprised at how hard the rain plummeted down. I headed across the plateau to Sergeant Man and climbed up its slippery wet rocks to its summit. The day had definitely taken a gloomy turn. I placed my back to the wind and rain in order to shelter my camera and get a summit photo. Initially, I couldn’t find a track that headed off towards Thunacar Knott. This surprised me a bit since I expected there to be a well trodden path between Sergeant Man and the Langdales. Eventually I found a grassy track and this made the going easier. By the time I reached the summit cairn on Thunacar Knott, the rain had stopped. It looked like the day was going to be a mixture of sunshine and showers. 

Harrison Stickle And Pike O'Stickle

At least there was no mist now. I headed southwards towards Harrison Stickle and was soon at the base of its final summit crag. The rocks were wet and slippery, but I was soon making my way across its top to its small summit cairn. As expected, there was a tremendous view down to Pavey Ark. I couldn’t see anybody making their way up Jack’s Rake along its cliff face. There was also a superb view down the Langdale valley towards Elterwarter. I could see Lake Windermere in the far distance. It was less than a couple of hours since I started walking and I’d already ticked four BGR peaks; things were going well. I looked westwards to the craggy summit of Pike O’Stickle. Things were potentially about to get more difficult. 

I’ve walked between Harrison Stickle and Pike O’Stickle many times, but the amount of descent involved between the peaks always surprises me (about 100m vertical descent from Harrison Stickle). After crossing the beck at the bottom, I started the climb up to the base of Pike O’Stickle. As I approached it a couple of walkers were scrambling their way down. I wondered whether to leave my backpack at the bottom of the crag, whilst I quickly scrambled up and down. Looking around I could see a couple of groups of walkers approaching from Loft Crag. It’d probably be safe, but I didn’t fancy risking it. I strapped my trekking poles into my rucksack and headed off up the crag. As with all these things, the anticipation’s always worse than the reality. I scrambled up without any problems. There were incredible views from its summit over towards Loft Crag and down into the Langdale valley. The sun was shining too illuminating the fields below. I looked at the route up to Bowfell via the Great Slab and I was glad that I’d already decided not to take it. I scrambled down from the summit without any problems and felt relief. I now had to make my way around to Rossett Pike. 

Rossett Pike And Ore Gap

The path from Pike O’Stickle took me across the flat expanse of Martcrag Moor. I just missed meeting two backpackers who were heading north on the Cumbria Way, as my path intersected theirs. I made my way across Black Crags and Rossett Crags on a path that became indistinct as I made the final approach to Rossett Pike. The grey clouds and rain returned as I forged my own path across slippery boulders to its summit. The actual top doesn’t have that good a view of the Langdale valley and so I made my way along the summit ridge to get a better look. By the time I returned to the summit, the rain was coming down hard and so I started to make my descent to Angle Tarn. I came across a few groups of walkers making their way along the path from Esk Hause. The weather was too miserable to chat though. I soon turned off the Esk Hause path and onto the one curving up to Ore Gap. Just before reaching the top of the pass, I filled all my water bottles from a stream since, as far as I could remember, I was going to be heading into a ‘dry zone’ with regard to water sources. 

Bow Fell And Esk Pike

I now had to do an out-and-back to bag Bow Fell. This was a bit frustrating since I always find this section of path stony and difficult under foot. I followed two walkers who had descended Esk Pike and reached Ore Gap before me. By the time I reached the base of Bow Fell’s rocky summit, I was in a world of swirling mist again. Amazingly, the mist cleared when I reached the summit and I was able to get a good view in all directions. The two walkers who had preceded me from Ore Gap had made their way down on another route from the summit and were now heading towards the Great Slab. Bow Fell ticked, I made my way down from the summit crag and started making my way back towards Ore Gap.    

Grey clouds were forming over Esk Pike as I approached Ore Gap. I thought I might be in for another downpour, but it never happened. I started the long haul to its summit. The fell has a couple of false summits, but I’d climbed the hill many times before and so was well prepared for the disappointments. The actual summit was a craggy affair with a small cairn built on the top of one of them. At least it wasn’t misty and I got a view. The path down the north side of Esk Pike was rockier and steeper than its southern side. I soon made my way down to easier ground though, happy in the knowledge that all my BGR peaks had been ticked for the day. 

Esk Hause And Allan Crags

I headed over to the cross shelter at Esk Hause and plonked myself in the leeward quadrant to brew a tea and wolf down a Firepot. It was nice to get some warm food and drink inside me since the wind and rain had made me a little chilly. The weather still looked threatening and I hoped that the rain would hold off before I pitched my tent. 

I followed another walker and his dog on the ascent to the top of Allen Crags. The chap was hauling a large rucksack and I judged he was a wildcamper. Sure enough, when I reached Allen Crag’s rocky summit, I could see the fellow setting up his tent in the sheltered area that I’d pinpointed for myself. Never mind, there was plenty of space up here. I went 400m or so further along the path towards Glaramara and then headed east to find a decent pitch away from the path. I found a good spot that had an excellent view of all the terrain that I’d walked over today. I managed to get my tent pitched before it started raining.     

I was happy with my progress today. Although I’d only covered 10 miles, the terrain had been difficult in places carrying a large rucksack. I was happy that I’d found the scramble up Pike O’Stickle easier than expected. That boded well for future scrambles on the BGR. Tomorrow was going to involve a traverse of the Scafell Pike plateau. I reckoned it would probably be the toughest day on the BGR.